Is This Really Africa?

View of Johannesburg from JoJo's aunt's apartment.

That thought crossed my mind countless times while we were in South Africa.  I would not have believed the degree to which South Africa is westernized if I had not seen it for myself.  It is so very different than my experiences in Ghana and Tanzania– so much so that I felt as if I had been teleported back home to the States, or Europe even. 

Both Johannesburg and Cape Town are big cities in the same way that Atlanta and Chicago are big cities in America.  Most other ‘cities’ in Africa would not be considered cities in the States, but towns at best.  And, they are both full of Western amenities.  I was in shock, real shock – just ask JoJo.  I expected South Africa to be more advanced, but I was not ready for the stark difference between South Africa and other African countries.

Cape Town as the last bit of sun is setting.

I became upset with myself for continuing to think: ‘this is not Africa’.  Why did I feel that way? Did I not think Africa was capable of being this developed? Did I subconsciously expect less from countries in Africa? Did I only view Africa as a continent full of unpaved roads, traditional garb and lots of exotic, wild animals? No, this is not my opinion of Africa.  I love this continent.  I love the people. I love the warmth and hospitality and acceptance of its people.  I love the rich, vibrant traditions. I love the simplicity of life and the way that family, friends and faith are valued.  I have such respect for the work that is done here and the way that people live.  So why, then, did I have such a visceral and negative reaction to the progress of South Africa?

The answer to that question lies not so much in South Africa’s progress itself but in where on the continent the progress is.  It is not a secret that the white population of South Africa is the largest of any country on the continent – 10%, in comparison to the 1% of other countries.  Interestingly enough, South Africa’s white population percentage is the same percentage of Americans of African descent.  But that is another conversation for another day.  So, in simplest terms, South Africa is the whitest country in Africa.  And it is one of the most, if not the most, advanced.  Why? Why is this the case? The people of color of the continent deserve the same access to clean water, the same level of health care, the same amount of paved roads, the same dependable internet, the same plumbing, dishwashers, washers, dryers and on and on that is available to the (white) citizens of South Africa.  Progress and advancement is not a reflection of and should not be attributed to color.  However, when you compare South Africa with other countries, it seems as though this is the case, or at least a strong argument could be made to support such a claim.  The success/progress of South Africa cannot even combat stereotype of Africa as primitive, unclean, etc because so many struggle to accept it as really Africa.  How can I blame the people of color of Africa for buying into and believing the nonsense of this stereotype, because sadly many really do? They know what is available to them, in their countries, and they watch the media show how differently South Africans live.  It really struck a cord to see that this injustice exists within the continent, even though I am painfully aware that it exists outside of the country too.

I could not contain my excitement for my first American
breakfast since 2013, especially the things that are virtually
non-existent in TZ: yogurt with granola, CHEESE and bacon!

So, visiting South Africa was difficult for me to say the least.  I struggled to enjoy the luxuries that South Africa offered.  I couldn’t turn my brain off.  I felt bad for eating tuna fish as well as several, several other western foods and loving every bite.  I felt bad for not having any roller-coasteresque, bumpy rides during our two weeks because all of the roads are paved.  I felt bad for showering in the absolute best shower I have ever showered in.  I felt bad for taking the elevator, do you know how much power it takes to operate an elevator, to our room on the second floor. 

Before and after pictures do all the explaining necessary. 

I didn’t feel bad because these things were available in South Africa, but I felt because they were not available throughout the rest of the continent.  Like others, I didn’t feel like I was ‘in Africa’ – and I felt sick to my stomach that I felt that way.  It made me feel like I, or my perspective, was part of the problem that Africa as a continent battles against each day.  And, if all that wasn’t enough, I felt like the biggest tourist there ever was.  Without knowing any traditions or the language, I felt more out of place in South Africa, where at least some people physically resembled me, than I have during my entire time in Tanzania – where I stand out like a sore thumb.

I am working on embracing South Africa and its current condition.  I am excited to see development and advancement on the continent as a whole, and I am still trying to figure out how to balance the benefits of progress in South Africa with the bigger, racially charged message it sends to the rest of the continent and world alike.  I don’t think I am going to reach a resolution anytime soon, but I will keep processing.  That being said, at the end of our two weeks in South Africa, I couldn’t have been happier to return to Tanzania, my home away from home.